Viuda Negra ‘Las Levantadas’ from Javier San Pedro Ortega is a fantastic example of modern white Rioja which is made from a blend of Viura, Tempranillo Blanco and Malvesia. The wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged on its lees for four months to give a lovely richness to the delightful peach, floral or orchard fruit character. The body and texture on the finish is amazing with deep citrus and touches of flint. A wonderful wine.

I was introduced to Javier by our mutual friend Leon who makes, along with his wife Sara, the excellent Latido wines. He told me that I had to try these Rioja’s made by Javier and used every wine cliché under the sun to try and persuade me. “New Wave Rioja” “Best up and coming wine maker” “Terroir driven” “Modern interpretation of a classic” etc etc. Before I could escape, Javier was towering over me. He’s tall and athletic, not intimidating but instantly likeable and full to bursting point with another cliché “Passion” for his wines.

Javier was born into a winemaking family at Bodegas Vallobera, based in Laguardia in the Rioja Alavesa and learned from both his grandfather and father before making his first wine aged 17. In 2013 he moved away from his families’ traditional styles to create his own project, Bodegas Javier San Pedro Ortega. The Viuda Negra range focuses on old vineyard plots that have either been restored or replanted. It was clear from my first tasting that Javier was talented and his wines were as captivating as the man himself. They perfectly highlight the beauty and diversity of Rioja and show where the area is heading with a modern approach to terroir rather than age statements.