Viuda Negra 'Nunca Jamas' Rioja from Javier San Pedro Ortega is a brilliant modern style of Rioja which displays wonderful dark red fruit, juicy bramble notes and little flashes of chocolate. It is low in tannin and has perfectly integrated oak which enhances rather than overpowers the vibrant fruit. A fantastic bottle of modern Rioja.

I was introduced to Javier by our mutual friend Leon who makes, along with his wife Sara, the excellent Latido wines. He told me that I had to try these Rioja’s made by Javier and used every wine cliché under the sun to try and persuade me. “New Wave Rioja” “Best up and coming wine maker” “Terroir driven” “Modern interpretation of a classic” etc etc. Before I could escape, Javier was towering over me. He’s tall and athletic, not intimidating but instantly likeable and full to bursting point with another cliché “Passion” for his wines.

Javier was born into a winemaking family at Bodegas Vallobera, based in Laguardia in the Rioja Alavesa and learned from both his grandfather and father before making his first wine aged 17. In 2013 he moved away from his family's traditional styles to create his own project, Bodegas Javier San Pedro Ortega. The Viuda Negra range focuses on old vineyard plots that have either been restored or replanted. It was clear from my first tasting that Javier was talented and his wines were as captivating as the man himself. They perfectly highlight the beauty and diversity of Rioja and show where the area is heading with a modern approach to terroir rather than age statements.